A Tale of Three Labels

On New Year’s Day 1876, a lone and anonymous brewery employee secures the first registered trademarks in Britain; Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton’s three iconic beer labels, after a night spent waiting in the cold.

My name, should you trouble yourself to ask, is of no importance whatsoever, and will never be engraved upon marble, entered into ledgers of fame, nor toasted by future generations. Some may reasonably question whether I ever drew breath at all, and they would not be wrong to do so, for there exists not a single scrap of proof that I ever lived. I am, in all likelihood, no more than a tale contrived by another anonymous brewery employee, set down some eighty years after the event, and fashioned solely to lend a little romance to the prosaic business of opening an envelope and attending to the business of forms and papers on a Saturday morning in a London office. How the brewery actually achieved its quiet coup in securing the first of the British trademarks has slipped from memory entirely, and with it, if indeed I ever was there, I also have been lost to history.

Yet my occupation on this particular morning is of no small significance, and so I find myself seated in service of Messers Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton, upon the cold, unyielding stone steps of the Trademark Office in London, at half-past eight on New Year’s Day, in the year 1876.

The sun has, by all accounts, risen; but if it has done so, it has exercised a remarkable discretion in keeping itself well hidden behind the stern façades of the surrounding buildings, as though it too objects to gentlemen spending the night outdoors. The cold is sharp and penetrating. According to The Times, a newspaper that began last evening as a source of enlightenment and has since been reduced, by necessity rather than disrespect, to a makeshift cushion, the temperature fell during the night to forty-one degrees Fahrenheit. I am grateful for my overcoat, which has laboured manfully in my defence, and count myself fortunate that the weather remained fair; had rain been forecast, my employers would surely have excused my vigil, such is their concern for both their interests and the wellbeing of those who serve them.

These employers are not men of modest ambition, but brewers of such renown that their ales are spoken of in distant ports and foreign tongues, and consumed in places where English weather, and English patience, are but dimly understood.

Only the bitter comfort of stone steps for a seat …

If you should care to picture me, you may do so without fear of excess. Imagine a figure not out of place in a respectable engraving: noble grey beard, a top hat worn with quiet confidence, a smart suit brushed and pressed, and a walking cane carried not from necessity but from obedience to fashion, which governs a gentleman’s appearance with the same unyielding authority that Parliament applies to the nation. I am, in short, a proper Victorian gentleman, though one chilled to the marrow after a night spent communing with stone steps better suited to statues than men.

I was instructed, in terms both clear and firm, to ensure that I stood first in the queue when the doors opened this morning. I therefore arrived after supper yesterday evening and was relieved to find myself alone. Indeed, I remained so throughout the night, save for the occasional passer-by. London is accustomed to the sight of men sleeping in doorways, but my tidy appearance, being neither dishevelled nor reduced to rags, provoked a number of curious glances, as though my presence posed a small but nagging riddle, which most preferred not to solve before hurrying on about their business.

I hold fast to my briefcase, and do so with good reason, for within it resides a fortune. Not my own, alas, but my employers’. Inside lies an envelope containing a quantity of papers and most precious the three example labels pertaining to my employers’ beers, small in number and size yes, yet they are worth more than gold: the first bears a Red Triangle, proclaiming Bass & Co’s Pale Ale; the second a Red Diamond used for Strong Ales, and the third a Brown Diamond, reserved for Extra Stout.

This was no ordinary New Year’s Day: the Trade Marks Registration Act 1875 coming into force this very morning, and I was here to register the first three under its authority. The labels being objects of envy throughout the brewing world. It is said, with some justice, that a determined man may find Bass beer on the far side of the globe, provided he has the patience to look and the wisdom to recognise it.

Such fame, of course, invites mischief. There have been many scoundrels, fellows of slippery conscience and inventive dishonesty, who have attempted to pass off their own inferior products as ours, either by refilling Bass bottles or worse by producing labels altered only enough to deceive the unwary. I have seen, with my own eyes, bottles adorned with a red bell instead of the triangle, and beer brazenly sold under the name “Baass & Co.” The legal registration of these marks will at last allow Bass, Ratcliff & Gretton to pursue these rogues through the courts fortified by the full, solemn weight of the law, newly awakened to its duty and finally to protect what they have so diligently built.

The Red Triangle has been in use at Bass for as long as I can remember, and longer still, for it was known to my grandfather, who himself entered the company’s employ as a young man. In his time, as in mine, that modest three-cornered figure carried with it a reputation that travelled far beyond its hometown of Burton upon Trent.

The Pale Ale label itself was devised in the year 1855 by George Curzon, a Burtonian born and bred, a man of steady hand and sharper mind. It was he who drew the ornamental border of Stafford Knots, not for aesthetics alone, but as a deliberate snare for the dishonest, a pattern intended to perplex the forger and expose the imitator who lacked either patience or skill.

Fatigue soon claims me

The law, it is true, has offered some measure of protection to such marks since the Merchandise Marks Act 1862 came into force; yet that safeguard was but a thin coat against a hard winter. It warned, but did not defend; it discouraged, but did not prevent. Until this very day, a man might still steal a reputation with little more than impunity. Now, at last, the law has sharpened its pen, and honest marks may stand on firmer ground.

At the stroke of midnight the church bells rang out across London, pealing bravely to welcome the year of our Lord 1876; yet for me there was no warmth of celebration, no clasped hands nor strains of Auld Lang Syne, only the bitter comfort of stone steps for a seat, and the stiff chilled vigil of duty to welcome the new year in service. As the night wore on and the cold grew bolder, I found myself repeatedly wishing that the Red Diamond had been attached to a bottle rather hidden in the briefcase, for Bass No.1, our strongest ale, was devised expressly to fortify a man against just such conditions. That it should be denied me at the very moment of greatest need struck me as an irony worthy of remark, if not redress.

But to return to the present, I am warmed by the arrival of a gentleman bearing a formidable collection of keys. He bids me good morning, cheerfully, as men tend to do when they have slept indoors, and unlocks the door of the Trademark Office. Taking pity on the shivering gent he meets, I am ushered inside and offered a seat in a small waiting area. The comfort of the chair is a blessing of the first order; the absence of a hot drink, a disappointment I endure in silence.

Fatigue soon claims me. I cannot have slept more than an hour all night, and even that was achieved in brief, untrustworthy snatches. I am awakened by a polite cough from the clerk. To my horror, I find that I am no longer alone. Three other gentlemen now sit waiting, each also clutching briefcases with an air of guarded importance. They regard me in silence, their faces politely inquisitive, as though each were silently calculating the hour at which I must have taken my place in order to secure my position at the head of the line.

The clerk’s pen scratches industriously across the paper

“The representative of Messrs Bass, Ratcliff and Gretton?” the clerk inquires.

I nod slowly, for sleep still clings to me, heavy and unwilling to be dismissed, I rise from the comfort of the chair and clutching my briefcase as though it might otherwise take flight, I proceed down a narrow corridor into a modest office, where the purpose of my vigil is at last to be fulfilled.

“How many marks?” the clerk asks.

“Three,” I reply, and nearly offer him the wrong one first, such is my weariness. But I recover. First the Bass & Co. Pale Ale label with the Red Triangle. Ten minutes pass. Then the Red Diamond. Then the Brown.

The clerk’s pen scratches industriously across the paper as he completes the necessary forms, each stroke sounding to my tired ears like the ticking of a clock marking an historic event. Payment is then accepted, with due propriety and without remark, and so the business, long awaited and faithfully endured, is concluded in a seemingly in a trice, standing in contrast to all that had gone before.

I shake his hand, bid him a Happy New Year, and take my leave, returning to my lodgings. Back to warmth. To bed. And perhaps, just perhaps, to a bottle of Bass, finally put to its proper use.

A bottle of Bass, finally put to its proper use.

The Red Hand is close

History books and old maps are invaluable things, when you need to get the facts straight before doing something permanent like naming a street Red Hand Close in reference to the Red Hand trademark of brewer Burton Samuel Allsopp & Sons Ltd.

Red Hand Close but not close enough!

“Red Hand Close, as part of Trent & Dove’s Tyldesley Court development, was included among a list of proposed street names in keeping with the town’s focus on brewing and submitted to East Staffordshire Borough Council for overall approval in 2023,” said a spokesperson for Trent & Dove. “We want the name to reflect and celebrate Burton’s rich brewing heritage in a wider context, rather than focusing solely on Tyldesley Court itself. In addition, Allsopp’s Old Brewery was historically located to the south of the Tyldesley Court site, further reinforcing the relevance of this heritage-led approach to naming.”

Tyldesley Court itself is named after Sir Thomas Tyldesley, a Civil War general who crossed Burton Bridge in 1643. Today it comprises of 72 high-quality apartments for the over-55s, alongside nine general-needs flats and ten three-bed family homes, all providing much-needed affordable housing.

Tyldesley Court front along High Street

But a little historical context is essential. In the 19th century, the High Street area was the very heart of Burton’s brewing industry. Worthington’s, Bass, Allsopp’s, Salt’s and the Burton Brewery Company all had premises fronting the High Street and backing onto the Trent. Just around the corner, at the foot of Trent Bridge, stood Nunneley’s.

As the 20th century wore on, consolidation and modernisation took their toll. By the 1950s and 60s, Allsopp’s Old Brewery, Salt’s, the Burton Brewery Company and Nunneley’s had fallen into decline and were demolished. Salt’s, Burton Brewery Co. and Nunneley’s were replaced by Bargates, a bold 1960s shopping development that rapidly became a white elephant and was eventually demolished itself. The site then languished as little more than a car park until Trent & Dove acquired the land. The rest, as they say, is history.

Trent & Dove are correct in saying that Tyldesley Court lies near to Allsopp’s former site but what they fail to mention is that the land itself once belonged to not one, but three unrelated breweries. Why Allsopp’s Red Hand, when their brewery lay on the other side of Meadow Road, where Carling House now stands empty? Why not Red Cross Close, after Thomas Salt’s red Maltese Cross trademark? Your guess is as good as mine. I have nothing against Trent & Dove and the excellent work they do, thankfully their houses are better than their historical research.

Tyldesley Court to the left, Allsopp’s to the right

And this isn’t the first time Burton’s brewing heritage has been treated carelessly. Before COVID, Marston’s marketing department launched the Horninglow Street series of beers to celebrate their roots, even numbering the first release No.1 Horninglow Street. Had anyone consulted a map, they might have noticed that this was an actual building  and nowhere near the original brewery on Horninglow Road North. By the second release, the “street” had quietly vanished from the name.

The bottom line is simple: it is either right or it is wrong and Red Hand Close is wrong. Like No.1 Horninglow Street, it needs changing.

By all means celebrate Burton’s brewing heritage but please, get it right. And the less said about the Malt Shovel (or rather, spade) outside Primark, the better.

Salt’s Light Dinner Ale label with the red Maltese cross trademark

Arctic Ale in the Polar Night

Take a bottle of beer on holiday and capture the moment. Easy, right?

Well, not when the bottle in question is 150 years old, covered in dust, and carrying the ghost of a failed polar expedition.

This isn’t just any bottle. It is Allsopp’s Arctic Ale, brewed in 1874 for Sir George Nares’ 1875 ill-fated attempt to reach the North Pole via Smith Sound on Greenland’s west coast. The men never made it, much like the bottle as this particular survivor surfaced in 2013, empty, forgotten in the cellar of Allsopp’s New Brewery in Burton. 

The plan: take it north of the Arctic Circle and capture a suitably dramatic photograph; snow, cold, and if luck permits, the Northern Lights. The owner, Gary, had only one request: “I want it back with the dust intact.” Spoiler alert: he’ll be disappointed.

I’ve coined a new phrase for the occasion: you can’t take a 150-year-old bottle into Arctic Norway without disturbing the dust. Admittedly less catchy than the omelette one.

We arrive in Tromsø in late December 2024. Snow is falling, wind is howling, and the temperature hovers around eight below. Tromsø, the so-called “Arctic Capital,” sits like a jewel in the dark, polar night. 

Fjellheisen cable car

The idea is to ride the Fjellheisen cable car up to Storsteinen, a mountain ledge 421 metres above sea level, to capture a panorama of Tromsø glittering below. But the weather has other ideas. The cable car closes, too windy. Hiking through snowdrifts just isn’t an option.

The next day we try again. Ninety minutes in the queue, snow piling on our coats, and just as we reach the door, closed! The winds are back. So we try for shots at the mountain’s base: the bottle perched in untouched Nordic snow, Tromsø lights flickering behind. Atmospheric, yes, but not quite the grand vision.

The bottle now travels by sea, wrapped in bubble-wrapped like Fabergé Egg on MS Polarlys, part of the Hurtigruten fleet. We are ferried north through icy fjords. After a hearty dinner of Finnbiff stew (I have two portions because I can), we head outside as the ship docks at Skjervøy, a settlement clinging to bare rock, its name literally meaning “rocky island.” Docking is swift and precise: rope thrown, caught, secured, bays opened, passengers out, bays shut, rope cast off and dragged through the Kvænangen fjord. Fifteen minutes flat. Military in its efficiency.

The Northern Lights are a no-show, hidden behind stubborn cloud. I give up and retire to the cabin in search of sleep which proves as elusive as the lights. Our cabin sits above the engine, which roars into life at every port, shaking the walls until dawn. The Arctic doesn’t let travellers rest easily.

Netty and Holly in search of the perfect shot

By late morning we reach Honningsvåg, latitude 70°58′43″ N just shy of Nordkapp, Europe’s northern tip. With only 2,600 residents, it still qualifies as a “city” in Norway. It huddles against a mountain, defended from avalanches by snow fences. The sun hasn’t risen here since late November and won’t return for weeks. The long Polar Night absolute.

Yet the city glows. Fishing boats fill the harbour, lights shimmer across snowdrifts, and the air feels both remote and alive. Here the bottle finally finds its moment. Netty, the photographer, lies flat in the snow while Holly assists, and the camera captures it: Allsopp’s Arctic Ale, dust and all, against the endless Arctic dark.

Honningsvåg, latitude 70°58′43″ N, just shy of Nordkapp

The 1875 expedition may have reached 83°20′26″ N, but this is where the bottle’s journey ends. For a moment, it feels right to bury it here in the frozen ground, a symbolic homecoming. But the snow is two feet deep, the earth solid, and, minor detail, I don’t have a shovel. Besides, Gary would probably kill me.

And so, the dust-covered relic returns with us, a little more travelled, a little less dusty, and with a story far richer than the one it carried in the brewery cellar.

Last Orders at The Coopers

During her 42 years in the licensed trade, including eight at The Coopers Tavern, Mandy Addis has called last orders more times than she could ever count. But on this final Saturday as Landlady, she’s doing it differently; quietly, with purpose, and in her own inimitable style.

“It’s time,” she says simply, her voice carrying the calm certainty of someone who knows exactly when to bow out. This decision hasn’t come easily, but it has been a long time coming.

The past few years have brought their fair share of challenges, both behind the bar and beyond it. While Mandy is private about the specifics, one thing is crystal clear: time with her family now outweighs the long hours and relentless pace of life at The Coopers.

“I haven’t cried yet,” she grins, raising an eyebrow. “Get a few vodkas in me later, though, and that might change.”

Although the pub doesn’t open until midday, Mandy and her partner Mark have been at it since ten. Mark is in the cellar, pulling beers through and making sure everything’s perfect. The bar serves the full Joules range, a handful of guest ales, and of course, their legendary best-seller: Bass.

Mandy in The Gods

“Flat Bass” is served from a stillage behind the bar and is a local icon. Despite being listed as a guest beer by the brewery, it’s been a permanent fixture at The Coopers for as long as anyone can remember. It’s the only pub in town where you can get it served this way, and people come from far and wide just to get a taste. Bass isn’t just a drink here, it’s part of the place’s very soul.

While Mark manages the beer, Mandy’s busy prepping cobs, putting in orders, and taking care of payroll. The place is immaculate, already swept and cleaned after closing last night. Running a pub is a hard gig.

Just before opening, Mandy’s ritual begins: a touch of makeup, her “warpaint,” and she’s ready to face the day.

Upbeat and full of laughs, Mandy’s outwardly as cheerful as ever; you’d never guess the emotions swirling underneath. I make a mental note: never play poker with her.

“People don’t come in here to hear about my problems,” she says, waving off a regular with a smile. “They come to forget theirs. My job’s to make them feel welcome.”

The pub is her stage, I suggest.

“Exactly. If you can’t do this with a smile, you’re in the wrong job.”

“The Gods,” the unique raised seating area next to the bar, and perched high up sit regulars Jason and Cathy and their cheeky French bulldog, Bentley. The two awkward steps have caught more than a few unsuspecting punters off guard after a pint or two. A card and a bouquet of flowers rest on the upturned barrel that serves as their table, the first of many from well-wishers throughout the day. Half a dozen former staff members will stop by to say their goodbyes and there’s been a lot of messages on Facebook. Mandy’s a local legend in her own right.

Today also marks her final football crowd. Burton Albion welcoming Luton Town, and groups of away fans are making a weekend of it. One supporter buys Mandy a drink, half a Green Monkey, her go-to. She doesn’t drink ale, but she knows it better than many that do. Later, he returns with his mates, all amazed at how cheap it is. One even wonders if he’s been undercharged: “Only £12.50? Did you take for the pork pie too?” Welcome to Burton, my friend.

A pint of flat Bass

Regulars Keith and Suzanne drop in, they live a few miles away in Barton but make the trek to Burton to drink at The Coopers.

“I’d never been in a pub on my own before,” Suzanne tells me. “But when Keith had heart surgery, he wanted a pint. I was told I could bring one in, so I came here. Mandy looked after me, didn’t even charge me. I’ve been a regular ever since.”

“It’s the little things,” Mandy agrees, a faraway look in her eyes. “It’s about knowing your customers. He’s a big fan of Slumbering Monk,” she adds, referring to popular copper-brown ale from Joules.

The Coopers Tavern is a legendary spot in Burton. If anyone asks for a recommendation in town and only has time for one pint, I always send them here. Recently featured in The Telegraph as a must-visit in Burton, a couple here from Uttoxeter who read this and made the trip today, and it won’t be their last.

Whilst doing a sweep for dirty glasses, someone asks if I’m the new landlord. I laugh and shake my head. Truth be told, I couldn’t do it, the long hours, the never-ending smiling, the patience required, it’s just not for me.

I watch Mandy handle an inappropriate comment from a customer with grace. He asks for a photo of her pouring his Bass, then follows it up with a crude remark. “That’s rude!” she says, her tone firm but unfazed. I step back just in case he ends up wearing the pint. But it’s done. No fuss. No drama. As always, Mandy handles it professionally, like Bass off a duck’s back.

The usual Saturday afternoon lull doesn’t arrive. The rain outside brings in more punters. I slip into the alley beside the pub to listen to the gentle drizzle on the plastic roof while eavesdropping on the smokers’ random conversations. The pork pies sell out. Someone spills a drink in the meeting room. Business as usual? Not quite as tonight, there’s a party for Mandy’s leaving.

To celebrate there’s a band on. The Hat Tricks squeeze into a corner and belt out classic rock ‘n’ roll tunes. Mandy’s family has gathered and her long-time friend Tania is here, her daughter Honor is serving tonight alongside Ken and Karl. It’s a night for celebration, but the undercurrent of sadness is palpable. Mandy’s leaving, but no one will forget her.

Later, Mandy and Mark finally sit down to eat in the flat upstairs. They’ve ordered a takeaway curry from Apne next door. “I’ll miss this,” she says, referring not to her chicken tikka masala but her life downstairs. “I love meeting people. It’s a great craic. Without sounding big-headed, I was born to do this. It’s not a career, it’s a calling. I was never going to get rich here.”

You could argue that Mandy has been richer than most could ever dream. She’s respected, loved, and will be forever remembered by a community she helped shape long after she calls time on her last day.

Pub of the Year … Again: Inside The Devvie’s Award-Winning Streak

It’s early Saturday evening and Burton Albion have just beaten Mansfield Town at the Pirelli. The sunshine is pouring over the beer garden at The Devonshire Arms, where I’m soaking up the atmosphere and waiting for landlady Nicki Stout to finish cooking my dinner on the BBQ Shack. My wife returns from the bar, navigating through a crowd of jubilant football fans. She’s holding two drinks, a Coke and a pint of Bass. No prizes for guessing which one’s mine.

“I’ve just seen Carl,” she says, referring to landlord Carl Stout. “My god, it’s busy isn’t it?”

The crowd breaks into a chant: “That’s the way, aha aha, we like it, aha aha…” The garden is buzzing with cheers, chants, the clink of glasses and my mind drifts back to a recent conversation with Carl and Nicki in this garden, when it was much quieter.

“We don’t really set out to win awards,” Carl says. “All we try and do our best all the time and try to give customers what they want. Now it sounds quite a simple philosophy to follow, but to do it consistently all the time, it takes a lot of hard work and a lot of dedication, not just by us, but by the staff as well.”

And yet win awards they do, plenty of them. Since taking over the pub in 2019, The Devvie has become a juggernaut in the local CAMRA scene, scooping Burton & South Derbyshire Pub of the Year in 2020, 2023, 2024 and 2025, and finishing runner-up in 2022. No award was handed out in 2021, but they’re also reigning joint champions of the “Best Bass in Burton” title, sharing the crown with The Roebuck Inn.

“We’re fiercely independent,” says Carl. “Because we can steer our own ship, it’s up to us what direction we want to go in. That comes with a little bit of responsibility, a little bit of risk but ultimately, we seem to be doing okay.”

Nicki grins. “Is it the cleanest pub in town? Best polished brass? Prettiest hanging baskets? You’ve got to tick all the boxes, it’s all in the detail.”

“And that’s before they even see the mirror and the copper tables,” she adds, referring to their gleaming tabletops, often photographed with an immaculate pint of Bass perched on top.

“I think Carl loves them more than me and Jack.”

Carl remains silent just long enough to raise eyebrows.

“He’s not saying no!” Nicki laughs.

Their son Jack, now 20, has grown up in the pub world and is clearly following in the family’s footsteps. “He just wants to be in a proper real ale pub, chatting with people,” Nicki says proudly.

Carl and Nicki’s story began in a pub, naturally. “It’s a cliché,” Carl shrugs. Since starting at Wetherspoons in 1998, they’ve managed pubs across London, Harrow, Cambridge, and finally, Burton upon Trent, where they arrived in 2000 to take over The Lord Burton.

“We came to be closer to family in Nuneaton,” says Nicki, smiling. “But not too close, for obvious reasons.”

“Where else would a Wetherspoons be the only pub in the Good Beer Guide?” Laughs Carl.

Burton quickly got under their skin, they ran The Devvie for Burton Bridge Brewery for a while before being offered the Burton Bridge Inn. “We’re obsessed with the place, in the best way,” Carl admits. “It’s got this incredible pub culture.”

During their early days at The Lord Burton, they caused a stir by shifting a barrel of Pedigree a day and being recognised by the brewery. “We had ten barrels lined up in the cellar,” Carl recalls, “plus seven other beers.”

“Marston’s pubs were livid!” Nicki chuckles. “They had to tweak the award title to ‘biggest free trade account’ just to stop the complaints.”

Shortly after they bought The Devvie in 2019, Carl had an idea that has led to a series of regional beer festivals, starting with a simple idea: get every Burton brewery under one roof.

“Once we did that, we had to do a Geordie one, then a Yorkshire one … before you know it, we’re driving to tiny breweries in the Lakes and getting turned back by flood water.”

One Yorkshire brewer North Riding proved so popular they’re now on permanent rotation. “People went crazy for it,” Carl says. “He delivers to us now.”

Carl: “We rang up these little breweries and said we are doing a festival, can we come and collect? You have a nice time away too, so it’s a bit of a jolly. It’s really interesting going round to different breweries and seeing how some people operate. You go to these most idyllic settings and you think, wow, this is absolutely stunning, and then somewhere like an industrial estate in the middle of Rochdale … keep the van running! The brewery door was locked and none of the casks were outside!”

The Devvie’s cellar still reflects its traditional roots, built for volume, not variety.

“Back in the day, you’d have a mild, a bitter, and maybe a strong bitter. Now, people demand choice,” says Carl. “We can’t go below six beers. We can’t go above seven, we just don’t have the space. We’ve tried the uprights where we stand the beers up on the vertical rods, but we couldn’t really get along with them. So, we’re down to the more traditional self-tilters, which in general work very well.”

Events like the recent Manchester Beer Festival stretched them to their limits: sixteen firkins stored alongside regular stock. “The Manchester stuff flew out, but so did the Bass.”

Their beer map is ever-expanding. “We were looking at which way we were going to go next, probably Lincolnshire or Humberside,” says Carl. “When we get to Sheffield, Nottingham area we’re going to have to be quite picky which ones we get. It requires an awful lot of hard work, logistically and convincing them to let us have the beer because you’d be surprised how many brewers say, this is too good to be true! What, you’re going to come up in a van? You’re going to pick the beer up from the brewery? You’re going to pay on collection and then you’re also going to leave a deposit for the casks? It does take some convincing because some people just think you’re on a wind-up.”

While Carl obsesses over beer, Nicki takes the reins in the kitchen. Her regular food nights are a local legend.

“Eight themes: steak, fish, burgers, kebabs, tacos, Spanish and Oriental tapas … wait, that’s seven.”

“Pie night!” she remembers. “That’s a crazy one, really hard work so it is every couple of months. We do them every Tuesday and Wednesday evening. We use the Snug, four tables, turn them around every hour. Have a seat and eat, it is very strictly timed. We can get 40 to 45 people a night. We did pie night last month and it was a record-breaker! That’s the one they go mental for.”

Nicki’s food events hark back to their Burton Bridge Inn days: “We started doing a steak night in a small room that nobody used. We were on holiday in Cumbria, just outside Penrith and we went to this pub he was having a sausage festival and that’s how the Burton Bridge Inn Sausage Festivals came about.

“I said to the guy, what’s a sausage festival? He was selling thousands of sausages,” says Carl. “I thought we can do something like that, before you know it, you’re selling 2,500 sausages in two and a half days. Smelling like sausages for weeks afterwards.”

When the sun’s out, so is the BBQ Shack, sizzling burgers to go with the pints. The whole thing feels effortless but it’s anything but. As the queue on that sunny Saturday shows, it has certainly proved a hit with the locals.

“We’ve always liked the town,” reckons Carl. “Once you get under the skin of the Burtonians, they’re very friendly people. They’re a bit cautious at first to outsiders, but effectively it’s just a small town. The reason it’s developed so much is because historically a lot of people have come to Burton for work and have stayed here. Location-wise, it’s central in the country, close to two airports, half an hour from Birmingham, and an hour and a half from London.”

“As we’ve been here more than 25 years, we’ve become an adopted Burtonians so I understand,” adds Nicki.

Carl smiles, pint in hand. “It’s just perfect. And the pubs? They’re brilliant.”

Serious Bassiness?

Over the past decade, I’ve crossed paths with the Honourable Order of Bass Drinkers more times than I can count, usually during their annual pilgrimage to Burton. Like clockwork, I’d spot them around eight on a Sunday evening, a gallon of Bass already under their belts, living up to the “drinkers” part of their name without apology.

Formed in Manchester in 1967, years before CAMRA even existed, the HOBD can boast to be the oldest ale-enthusiast group in the country. Their motto is “numquam facere quae per partes” which kind of translates to “never do things by halves”, try it during a HOBD meeting and you will get fined. Their original branch has since inspired others: a lively one in Blackpool, another in the New Forest, and obviously Burton itself, which held its inaugural meeting at The Constitutional Club last October.

The founding fathers at The Constitutional Club

I was invited to join the HOBD – Burton Division last year but hit a sticking point straight away: they recognise the non-Burton-brewed bottled version to be Bass. It isn’t; it is not even close. Call me stubborn, but as the admin of the Great Stuff This Bass Facebook group, which firmly supports the Burton version only, it felt like betrayal. However, since the recent unexpected but welcome interest by brand owners AB-InBev, the bottled version has quietly disappeared. I’ve even heard that it might return but with Burton brewed Bass. It is a good rumour, I should know as I started it.

So, what was stopping me?

The Burton Division has made The Devonshire Arms its headquarters, so I turned up one Sunday, purely as an observer. Research, I told myself. Definitely. Not. Joining.

“The Devi has fantastic Bass,” says HOBD – Burton Division President Gary Summerfield, a man so enthusiastic and dedicated to the cause that he has three Bass tattoos. “Landlord Carl Stout is very accommodating and they have a suitable private area for us to hold our meetings. Bass is my trusted go to beer, great taste and at 4.4% a perfect session beer. My Dad worked at Bass for many years as well. Historically it has punched way above its weight with Royals starting brews like King’s Ale and Prince’s Ale, becoming a global brand throughout the British Empire. Also never forget just how much Bass and the other breweries gave back to the town!”

President Gary Summerfield

I agree with Gary’s sentiments, albeit minus the tattoos. To steal from Brian Clough, “I wouldn’t say Bass is the best beer in the world, but it’s in the top one.”

My main question: what exactly do they do at these monthly meetings? About ten members sit with pints in hand as the chairman, Barry Edwards, kicks things off with a toast “Gentlemen, are we having a drink? Certainly!”. The printed agenda lists the mysterious “Gerreminagin and BFFG” twice, this is a call for beer and Break For a Fag and Gypsy’s. Minutes from the previous meeting are read aloud, immediately setting a tone of cheerful absurdity. Jokes fly, pints vanish, and the Treasurer admits, completely straight-faced, that his plan to invest club funds in a casino was “sadly thwarted.” Fifteen minutes in, the meeting screeches to a halt when there is a delivery of pork pies.

The subject of membership is next. It turns out the last recruit quit, having been strong-armed into joining before sheepishly admitting he didn’t actually like Bass. At this point, everyone looks at me. I cave, laughing, and agree to join. Which, according to HOBD’s wonderfully illogical rules, technically means I can’t. The whole thing is starting to feel like a Monty Python sketch. I sign anyway, another pint is shoved into my hand, and I make a mental note: resign as soon as possible. (I don’t.)

Amid the laughter, there’s a serious undercurrent. Talk turns to Bass itself, the “sleeping giant” of the beer world. For years, enthusiasts have been trying to wake it up: National Bass Day, The National Bass Directory of pubs, a Facebook group with thousands of members. Now, suddenly, AB-InBev is interested. New branded glasses are on tables, bar runners and mirrors are appearing in pubs, and I recently dragged the Brand Manager around Burton on a Bass pub crawl, he was impressed by the town’s passion for Bass.

Chairman Barry Edwards

Gary: “We have 43 virtual members and 29 full members, you can join the Facebook group but to become a full member you need to attend a meeting.”

So if you’ve got a soft spot for Bass, live near Burton, and enjoy a Sunday pint in good company, you could do far worse than an afternoon with the Honourable Order of Bass Drinkers. Bring a sense of humour. You’ll need it.

What You Having?

Organising the beer list for any festival takes a lot of effort, skill, imagination and sometimes some luck that the right beer is available at the right time. There needs to be variety in styles, so something for every palate and beers that are either rare or exclusive. The Beer Ordering Team have excelled themselves this year and I’ve been pouring over the list picking out those I really want to try.

As this is the 50th anniversary of the Burton & South Derbyshire branch, three local breweries have produced special commemorative beers. I have covered ‘L’ Of A Beer from Burton Bridge Brewery in depth here, 3P’s from Woodville have brewed 50 Celebration which I am particularly looking forward to and then there is Tollgate’s Burton Five-0, a 5.0% premium bitter, their beers rarely disappoint,

There’s a proper Royal beer here too, Tower Brewery was recently visited by HRH King Charles III, who honoured the longstanding tradition of Burton Royal Ales that stretches back to 1902 with Bass King’s Ale. I know nothing about Ale To The King other than it is a 5.6% premium bitter. I believe it was served at Tower Brewery last Friday but this is the first time it is available to the wider public.

We have a first for the festival, with Burton’s newest brewery Outwoods (located under the Station Bridge, near the Roebuck Inn) supplying three firkins. Not only is this their festival debut, their beer has never been available outside of their brewery tap The Arches before! Golden Harvest, Platform No.3 and the delightfully named Fimbulvetr are all pints of history in the making.

Burton Bridge Brewery’s No Half Measures is being launched here on Thursday. This 4.5% Ruby Ale was a collaboration with Nottingham’s No Half Measures Collective and was brewed on International Women’s Day, it will also be available at Beer Debunked at the Canalhouse in Nottingham on Saturday.

There are a few interesting heritage beers: True North from Sheffield have brought Stones Bitter back to life, this beer was everywhere in the 1980s and I’ve only drank it from the striking orange can before. The Burton Bridge Brewery bar has Czar’s P2 which is based on the classic Bass P2 Stout and it has been conditioning in cask since last autumn. A little more recent and not a really heritage beer, but certainly one that seemed to be lost forever is Fownd‘s King Korvak’s Saga, this was a once staple at the Olde Royal Oak when owned by Fowne’s Brewery (note the different spellings) who went under a few years back, it is a might porter.

Sarah Hughes Champion Winter Beer of Britain 2024 winner Snowflake, makes a welcome return. It sold out quickly last year leaving many drinkers disappointed. At 8.0% it is as delicious as it is dangerous.

Carlsberg have provided a firkin of Martson’s Pedigree Reserve, a 5.0% version of their classic Burton bitter. Do I have high hopes for this? No, but will I be sampling it? Obviously, if only out of curiosity. There’s also Marston’s Old Empire, one of the beers that was discontinued recently, I’ve always enjoyed this IPA and this could well be my last chance. I wrote about the retiring of another Marston’s classic here.

Other beers on my list are Thornbridge Burton Union brewed 1838, Golden Duck’s Tinners Tipple and Nosey Parker, Gates Reservoir Gold which is always a treat, Blue Monkey’s 5.0% Cinder Toffee stout which I am told tastes just like it sounds and last but not least the two craft keg offerings from Burton’s other new brewery G3 Hazy Waves and West Side which are Gluten Free and full of flavour.

I’m be interested in what you are looking to drink and why. No doubt there will be a number of surprises to be found. The Cellar Team have been hard at work since Monday and the beer to be in excellent condition.

Enjoy the festival, I certainly will.

All ‘L’ Breaks Loose

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the Burton & South Derbyshire CAMRA branch and celebrations kicked off at The Leopard on 5th March, which was the location of the inaugural meeting in 1975. The commemorations are set to continue at the annual Beer Festival to be held at Burton Town Hall starting on Thursday at 12:00. To mark the occasion, what better than a special beer, brewed by none other than Burton Bridge Brewery, who have been supplying the festival since 1982? Burton Bridge also have a long history of producing celebratory beers for the branch, the first being Festival Ale initially produced in 1983 and fittingly on sale again this year.

‘L’ Of A Beer pumpclip

“We have been talking to Emma and Al at Burton Bridge for some months about an anniversary ale,” explains CAMRA’s Dr Gary Lock. “We looked at historically brewed Burton Ales, different beer styles and settled on a full-bodied full-flavoured Extra Special Bitter. We felt this was a fitting and appropriate beer to celebrate the 50-year milestone.”

Last month the Head Brewer at Burton Bridge Al Wall oversaw the brewing of ‘L’ Of A Beer with help from Gary, the L referencing the Roman numeral for 50.

Head Brewer Al Wall in action

“It was an early start at 06:30 but it was great to be at a commercial brewery for a day and see the anniversary ale on its brew day,” observes Gary, who is a keen home brewer. “I was doing my best not to get in the way and to not distract them, but I was there from the start and was invited to support with emptying the sacks of fresh hops towards the end of the brew.

“I have placed a personal order for a pin as I expect it to be a cracker and well worth the wait. I look forward to inviting some friends over to help me drink it and enjoy a nice full-bodied full-flavoured 5% ESB. It will hopefully be a pint to be enjoyed and savoured.”

Emma Cole from Burton Bridge Brewery explains: “‘L’ Of A Beer is a special collaboration brew that pays tribute to the rich brewing heritage of Burton upon Trent and to those who campaign for its successful continuation!”

Brewer Jon Williams adding hops

“Crafted with a deep respect for traditional Extra Strong Bitters, ‘L’ Of A Beer showcases a dark, rich mahogany hue and a perfectly balanced malt-hop profile,” enlightens Al. “We’ve combined rye, barley, and a carefully selected hop bill to create a beer that is both bold and complex. Expect caramel and toffee notes, a touch of spicy rye, and a firm yet refined earthy hop bitterness.”

The Burton & South Derbyshire Beer Festival will have over 140 beers to choose from, a third have been sourced locally. There will also a vast array of real ciders and perries.

“It is important that the local breweries and Burton’s rich brewery history take centre stage with the anniversary,” reckons Gary. “We are showcasing the local breweries at the beer festival and there are a number of events through the anniversary year to support and promote the local pubs and cask ales in the region. The anniversary ale is a fitting part of our celebrations and wish to thank Burton Bridge for making it happen.”

‘L’ Of A Beer will be available at the Burton Bridge Brewery bar at the festival, along with Top Dog Stout, Stairway To Heaven, Stairway To Citra, Festival Ale, Brewers Gold, Masseys Golden Bitter, Masterpiece, Czar’s P2 and No Half Measures.

Burton Bridge Brewery festival bar

“We are really excited to have our own bar at the festival,” says a passionate Emma. “This is also the first time we have had our own proper bar at any festival since we took over a year ago. With ten beers, we are showcasing a mix of new beers and old favourites, we hope everyone will enjoy them as much as we love creating them. The new bar that we built encapsulates Burton Bridge to its core; following on from the ethos of reusing and repurposing that Geoff and Bruce demonstrated, we made it out of pallets that our malt arrives on. Building it was a collaborative effort between everyone in our lovely team and we plan to reuse it after the festival during the summer months in our pub beer garden.

“Many thanks to CAMRA’s Dr Gary Lock who at the last minute saved the day by loaning us four extra beer engines when the ones we had didn’t work! Also, a big thanks to Colorscan, and in particular Steve Webster, who sorted all the artwork and our big pump clips that adorn the front of the bar. This all goes to show what a great beer community we have here in Burton.”

‘L’ Of A Beer will no doubt prove very popular and it will also be on sale at Burton Bridge Inn from Thursday, after that in bottle and other pubs in the free trade. What are the odds that it is the first beer to sell out at the festival?

Malt
Golden Promise 84.7%
Caramalt 7.7%
T50 Crystal malt 3.9%
CaraRye malt 2.5%
Chocolate Malt 1.2%

Hops
Bitterness 2.45g/l Target
Boil end hops 4.9/l Goldings (this was very scientific, as that made exactly 10kg, so no need to weigh out any quantities of hops, just use entire boxes!)

Fermentation
O.G. 1.050 and A.B.V. of 5%
Strike water temperature 76°C, mash temperature of 67.5°C, as it was decided that the beer required more body than some of other Burton Bridge beers
Collected at 22°C and fermented at 23°C with Burton Brewery yeast strain
Dropped to 18°C for one day post fermentation for a Diacetyl rest, then down to 8°C for packing into cask

Dog Days Are Over

Popular local publicans Craig and Loz Pearce have left The Dog, which they had run since 2021 and moved over the water to The Elms on Stapenhill Road. As we sit in the bay window peering through the trees onto the Washlands, it’s easy to see the attraction of the move.

“We had thought about another pub, the town centre is no place to bring up children, but we’d not be looking seriously,” says Craig. “A few weeks ago we wrote down a list of places we’d like, The Elms was number one. It was fate as we found out the place was available the next day!”

They gave notice on The Dog and ended up with the unenviable task of running two pubs for a fortnight.

“We are doing cobs Wednesday to Sunday, pork pies from Friday until they are gone and we are looking at the return of Burton Tapas and Marmite & Cheese straws,” lists Loz when asked about food.

They are also planning on live music, artists are encouraged to get in touch, there will be a regular Open Mic, a music quiz and the will be upgrading the dartboard area.

“Oh, the Bass? Yeah it’s staying,” laughs Loz, she’s been asked this many times in the last few weeks. “It’s on point too, I want the title of The Best Bass in Burton when the competition returns.”

Up The Junction

It may be mid-January, traditionally the month where the licenced trade struggles but this hasn’t stopped people heading out to The Junction in Stretton. The pub first opened in 2018 and recently changed hands last November.

“My locals tell me that they are seeing so many new faces in here,” confirms Fraser Chatburn who runs the place with his wife Karen. “I was going to drop from six hand pulls to four but as you can see I haven’t, there aren’t many pubs in the area that have this many cask beers available at one time.”

On the bar sits a Bass water jug, produced in 1977 to commemorate the opening of the Bass Museum and the bicentennial of the brewery.

“That’s there because it was Bass that first brought me to Burton 29 years ago,” says Fraser explaining the significance. “I ran pubs for Whitbread in the South-East and after gaining a degree at Stafford Uni, I worked for Bass in Burton for ten years.”

Fraser had been looking for a pub for a good while: “I made enquiries about the Alfred and then found The Junction was up for grabs. I used to come in here pre-COVID with an elderly neighbour, it has easy access and wide doors for the toilet etc.”

The Junction used to be a Blythe Brewery house and although now free of tie the Ruby Mild remains a permanent fixture.

“It’s a cracking 5% and we go against the grain at The Junction as the locals love dark beer, it’s our best seller at two and a half firkins a week. We also have stouts and porters on from Shiny, Front Row and Collyfobble.

“I want to keep my purchasing local for ales and lagers. Ciders are from Yoxall and Ashover and gins are from Nelson’s in Uttoxeter! We have a permanent gluten free and vegan friendly lager which is Thornbridge’s Lukas and one hand pull is dedicated gluten free.”

So far, the pub has sold beer from local brewers: 3P’s Brewery, Front Row Brewing, Little Brewing Company, Leatherbritches Brewery, Heritage Brewing Company, Mr Grundy’s Brewery, Brunswick Brewing Company, Lymestone Brewery, Shiny Brewery, Thornbridge, Collyfobble Brewery and of course Blythe Brewery.

Fraser and Karen have made a few changes, the pub is now open seven days a week due to demand, from 16:30 during the week and 12:00 at weekends and they are doing cold food throughout the week, with hot roast potatoes at Sunday lunch, there’s also a monthly quiz he hopes will prove popular.

“We celebrated Burn’s Night, or should that read Chatburn’s Night, by having haggis on the bar,” laughs Fraser.

And if he wasn’t busy enough building up his new business, Fraser is also the organiser of Tap Into Tutbury and is in the early stages of planning the second event which will take place 15th to 18th May. He has approached the venues from last year and thinks he has a few extra on board for 2025 making a total of ten, it is anticipated that it’ll be bigger and better than last year.